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Michael Grace-Martin

~ Photography, Art & Life

Michael Grace-Martin

Category Archives: Reviews

Canon EOS 6D DSLR Camera with 24-105mm f/4.0L IS USM AF Lens

22 Saturday Mar 2014

Posted by mgm in Reviews

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camera, canon 6D, equipment, review

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I have owned or used the full series of Canon 5D DSLRs (Mark I through Mark III). I have also owned or used all of the Canon 1D DSLRs (Mark I through Mark IV).

A little less than a year ago, I got rid of my 5D Mark III and bought the 6D (with the 24-105mm f/4.0L IS lens which I had owned in the past). The first thing I shot with it were these two series: Saturday at Lake George, New York (June 2013) and 2013 Elvis Festival, Lake George, NY).

I was pretty knocked out by the results. The 24-105mm f/4.0L IS in conjunction with the 6D gives really sharp results. I did notice a slight delay in its autofocus performance, but the focus was still able to lock in–even on moving targets–in most cases.

The silent shutter setting has really come in handy for both street photography and paid event photography where I need to be very quiet (e.g., at poetry readings).

The image quality, even at high ISOs, is as good as the more expensive 5D Mark III.

In short, I would recommend the 6D to anyone looking for a full frame Canon DSLR if you’re not shooting anything as fast-moving as most sporting events or car racing. It’s excellent for photographing outdoors or relatively slow-moving (or non-moving) subjects indoors–e.g., a couple moving down a relatively dark church aisle.

I think I paid $2400 for the 6D DSLR + 24-105mm f/4.0L IS lens kit, but you can get it at B&H right now for a mere $2000; that’s a good deal.

The Body Only 6D is $1900, but I think buying the kit and selling the lens if you don’t need or want it is a significantly better deal.



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New Features of the Canon 5D Mark III

01 Sunday Jul 2012

Posted by mgm in All, Commentary, Reviews

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5d, canon, features, mark iii, new

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When a fellow photographer showed me the silent/stealth shutter feature of the Canon 5D Mark III, I decided I needed it because I photograph events that require me to be *very* quiet when I’m taking the photos.

Since purchasing the camera, I’ve discovered additional useful features that I’ll mention here:

1) Dual memory card recording. Like the Canon 1D Mark IV I had previously, this camera has slots for both CF and SD memory cards. You have the option of recording to the cards in parallel (giving yourself an automatic backup card in case one card becomes corrupted) or serially (first one, then the other…giving yourself lots of storage.)

2) Locking mode dial. Unlike the 5D and the 5D Mark II (unless you paid an additional $100 for the latter), you have to push a button in order to change the mode dial. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve accidentally bumped the mode dial on the 5D and 5D Mark II, suddenly finding myself in a totally different mode (e.g., aperture priority, shutter priority, manual, etc) than I expected!

3) Extended Auto ISO up to 12,800 ISO. The 5D Mark II only went up to 3200 in Auto.

4) Auto ISO exposure in Manual mode. My 1D Mark IV had this feature too; though the 5D Mark III improves on it (I’ll explain). There are cases when I want to set the aperture and shutter speeds to particular values and let the ISO fluctuate to find the optimal exposure. The 1D Mark IV had this feature, and the 5D Mark III has it too. However, in addition, the 5D Mark III lets you lock in exposure with the “*” button and then recompose and take a photo at that setting. The 1D Mark IV wouldn’t allow you to use the “*” button (when in manual mode + Auto ISO) to lock in the exposure/ISO. The 5D Mark III does, and it can be *very* useful.

5) Finally increased the number of AF points. With the 5D Mark III, Canon finally increased the number of auto-focus points from the antiquated 9-points of the 5D and 5D Mark II, to an incredible 61 points.

 

 



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Canon RC-1 Wireless Remote Works with Canon 5D Mark III

06 Friday Apr 2012

Posted by mgm in All, Reviews

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5d, canon, mark iii, rc-1, remote

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Upon receiving my new Canon 5D Mark III digital SLR camera today, I tested it with the Canon RC-1 wireless remote control I’ve owned for many years…and it worked! I just wanted to put this up on the web in case someone is searching for this information like I was last week (when I couldn’t find the answer)!



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Review of Stephan Würth’s “Ghost Town” Project/Book

08 Thursday Dec 2011

Posted by mgm in All, Reviews

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book, fashion, fine art, nude, photography, review, stephan, wurth

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Stephan Wurth's Ghost Town

(1/14/2014) Note: apparently, the photos we linked to are no longer available. We’ll see if we can re-link to them somehow.

“An abandoned western gold rush town sets the stage for a photographic fantasy of three beautiful young women.” Ghost Town is the result of Stephan Würth’s lifelong fascination with the American West. — Clic bookstore & gallery

(Note: this review is based on the 21 photos from the book that *were* displayed at Stephan Würth’s website.)

It would appear that Stephan’s main body of work is in fashion photography; all of the photographs included in his “portfolios” section at his website are fashion-related at the time this review is being written.

Stephan Wurth Ghost Town

Though some of the book’s photos remind me of Playboy-esque soft porn, there’s sufficient artistry in his treatment of the subject matter to bring it back into a primarily art-oriented enterprise–though with a fairly obvious sexual fantasy targeted undercurrent.

Stephan Wurth's Ghost Town

I am sure we could endlessly debate whether these photos are “art” or soft porn. I am OK with leaving this an open question.

Stephan Wurth's Ghost Town

What I wonder about more than the art versus porn question is what Würth’s conceptual and visual goals were with this project? For example, take a look at the following two photos from the book:

Stepan Wurth's Ghost Town

Stephan Wurth's Ghost Town

These two photos–and there are more of this sort–seem to be here simply to remind us that we’re in a western ghost town, people; forget those naked women for a moment!

There are a number of purely artsy “detail”-type shots (e.g., a table outside on the plains with a framed photograph of a man that seems to date from early cowboy days) whose purpose seems primarily decorative.

Then, there are these very fashion-oriented photos. For example:

Stephan Wurth's Ghost Town

Stephan Wuth's Ghost Town

There are also some photos of the women that seem very posed and isolated from the ghost town context (e.g., there’s one of a totally nude woman seated on a chair with a plain canvas backdrop…fairly disconnected from her surroundings).

What it comes down to is this: he seems to be going in 3 or 4 different directions at once with these photos, which I think ends up diluting their overall effect.

Don’t get me wrong…I think he’s got some nice photographs in this book. The problem is they seem loosely put together without a clear visual or conceptual direction. Sure they’re all black & white photos–and maybe they all took place in a single ghost town location–but I don’t think that ensures the sort of continuity the human mind yearns for in a singular book-based project.

Does this review mean you shouldn’t purchase the book? Not necessarily. It’s just what I think; you can make up your own mind.

You can see more of Stephan Würth’s Ghost Town project and book at his website. It’s available for purchase at Clic Bookstore & Gallery and other booksellers.



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Panasonic DMC-FP8: ultra-compact with price, quality & performance I can live with

09 Friday Apr 2010

Posted by mgm in All, Reviews

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In one of my last posts, I think I made it clear I was giving up on finding a small, pocketable digital camera I liked.

Well, the funny thing is, I keep finding myself in situations where I want to take some photos (mostly while with my children) and the only camera I have available is the one in my cell phone. First, there was the one in my Blackberry which wasn’t very good, but at least it was 2 megapixels. Now there’s the one in my current phone that only takes 640×480 images and you can’t even get them off of the phone without paying to send them to yourself via email (it’s a prepay phone)! Trying to take a decent photo with a cell phone has *really* lowered the bar on what’s acceptable in terms of features and even–to some degree–what’s acceptable in terms of image quality.

I was noticing that the form factor of my cell phones was making it *way* easier to have them with me than any of my cameras, digital or film. Also, people out in public barely even notice if you pull out a cell phone (or something that looks like a cell phone) to take a photo; practically everyone is carrying around a cell phone or an mp3 player that is rectangular and looks like a pack or cigarettes or small deck of cards.

My first thought was to get a good camera phone (like an iPhone) and just use it as a camera (forget the actual cell phone plan, I’m not giving up my cheap prepay plan). But camera phone manufacturers need to make compromises to fit a camera along with a phone into a small rectangular space. Sure, there are camera phones with decent digital cameras, but if you buy a dedicated digital camera, you’re bound to get a much better camera for the same price.

So, I figured I wanted a relatively thin, rectangular device without large, protruding parts that I could use to take reasonably good digital photos costing less than $200, so I could carry it around everywhere and not have to worry about damaging an expensive ($400+) piece of electronics.

I had a Panasonic LX3 for a while that I mostly liked. What didn’t I like?

  1. I was hoping for quality and performance that would rival my Digital Rebel but in a more compact form. I discovered compact digital cameras simply can’t compete with digital SLRs.
  2. The lens on the LX3 sticks out pretty far and makes it not very pocketable.
  3. It’s a relatively expensive camera (around $500), so I couldn’t have it banging around in a coat pocket or small camera bag or whatever without having to worry about it more than I would want to.

I also owned a Canon S90 for a couple of months. While it was definitely slimmer and more pocketable than the LX3 and its images had much less noise than the LX3’s at high ISOs (800-3200), I was quite disappointed in its focusing speed and accuracy–definitely not as good as the Panasonic. And again, I was carrying around a camera that was pretty expensive ($400+), so I had to worry about it more than I’d like to.

Another thing I’d like to mention about these compact cameras with large maximum apertures (both the LX3 and S90 go as large as f/2, and this large aperture tends to make them more expensive) is don’t expect to get the sort of shallow depth-of-focus you can get with a digital SLR; the sensors are just too small in comparison to achieve a nice bokeh. The nice thing about large apertures on compact cameras is they help to keep ISOs lower; they don’t do much for shallow DOFs…unless the subject is *very* close to the camera.

So anyway, after getting over this fantasy that a compact camera could perform anywhere near a digital SLR in terms of things like shallow depth-of-focus or focusing on moving targets, I’ve come to realize there’s still a place in my photographic life for a compact digital camera. And the requirements have finally become clearer:

  • Small enough to fit into a shirt or front jean pocket (1 inch or less in thickness)
  • Flat and smooth with no large protruding parts; something like my Blackberry or an iPhone
  • A flush lens. Even though there are many cameras with lenses that are flush until you turn the camera on (then the lens zooms outward from the camera), once that lens zooms out, it functionality as a camera is pretty obvious to everyone around you. The one thing–maybe the only thing–I like about the camera in my cell phone is no lens sticks out and so it’s less obvious that you’re using it to take a picture.
  • Reasonably fast and accurate auto-focusing on non-moving subjects: still objects or children sitting or standing still…or at least not moving too fast.
  • Less than $200. My cell phones have been worth less than $200, so I don’t have to worry so much about having them with me in all sorts of environments and weather conditions.
  • Reasonably fast and wide lens. To me, a f/2.8 lens is as fast as I need; f/4 gets a little slow and f/5.6 is definitely too slow for indoor settings. I liked the 24mm (full-frame equivalent) on the wide end of the LX3’s zoom range; however, I find that 28mm is sufficient in 90% of the situations I find myself in. Even 35mm isn’t a deal-breaker; I have two compact film cameras with fixed 35mm lenses that I’ve used with quite satisfactory results.

With these requirements in mind, I did some research on the web and found a compact digital camera I’m quite pleased with: the Panasonic DMC-FP8. I found and bought a new one for a mere $160.  I think I was somewhat influenced by my mostly positive experience with the Panasonic DMC-LX3; even though its quite different in many ways from the LX3, the FP8 is similar enough to the LX3 in terms of features and performance that I have found it a comfortable and somewhat familiar photographic ally.

Panasonic DMC-FP8

Panasonic Lumix DMC-FP8

Here are some specs for the FP8:

  • Camera Effective Pixels: 12.1 megapixels
  • Aperture: F3.3 – 5.9 / 2-Step (F3.3 – 10 (W) / F5.9 – 18 (T))
  • Focal Length: f=5.0-23.0mm (28-128mm in 35mm equiv.)
  • Lens: LEICA DC VARIO-ELMAR, 10 elements in 8 groups, (5 Aspherical Lenses / 1 ED lens)
  • ISO Sensitivity: Auto /100 / 200 / 400 / 800 / 1600 (High Sensitivity Mode : Auto(1600 – 6400) )
  • AF Metering: Face / Touch AF/AE Tracking / Multi (11pt) / 1pt HS / 1pt / Spot
  • Viewfinder: No
  • LCD Monitor: 2.7″ TFT Screen LCD Display (230K dots), Field of View : approx. 100%
  • Built-in Flash
  • Power O.I.S. Image Stabilization
  • Weight(lbs): Approx. 0.29 lb; Approx. 0.34 lb with Battery and SD Memory Card
  • Dimensions (H x W x D): 2.35” x 3.77” x 0.80”

The lens is made by Leica and it’s a “folding lens” that is flush with the outside of the camera; it never protrudes past the surface of the camera even when zoomed out to 128mm. The maximum aperture on the lens is f/3.3. This is slightly smaller than f/2.8, however it’s only about one-third of a stop different (f/4 is a full stop slower than f/2.8) and its noise at 800 ISO is actually slightly better (based on my memory) than the LX3’s was; so the better performance at higher ISOs helps make up for the ever so slightly slower than ideal lens.

I haven’t had the camera for long, but I can tell you the focusing speed and sharpness of the lens–especially at 28mm f/3.3–has impressed me. And the image stabilization seems to do a very nice job at slow shutter speeds.

Plant by Window

DMC-FP8, 125 ISO, f/3.3, 1/40 sec

Trampoline Fun

DMC-FP8, 80 ISO, f/3.3, 1/125 sec

I’m still experimenting with the different menu settings, but so far, I like what I’ve seen. The FP8’s performance when the lens is zoomed out past 28mm seems less good to me; but I like having that extra zoom range in special instances…it could come in handy.

So, if you find yourself with similar preferences and requirements to the ones I’ve described for myself here in regard to a compact digital camera, I recommend you check out the Panasonic DMC-FP8 for yourself!

(Note: the Panasonic DMC-FP8 has actually been discontinued, but you can still get it new online. This is one of the reasons you can get it so inexpensively! The only way to get this same lens in a current model is to buy the $300-$400 DMC-TS2.)



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Dimensions (Size) of the Canon Powershot S90 versus Canon S60 and Ricoh GR1

20 Friday Nov 2009

Posted by mgm in All, Reviews

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Just a quick post showing the size of the Canon S90 compared to my previous smallest (most pocketable) camera, the 35mm film Ricoh GR1:

Now, how about a quick comparison with the 5 megapixel Canon Powershot S60, which I also own:

The S90 is clearly thinner and more pocketable than its predecessor, the S60.

The S90 turns out to be *very* similar in thickness/depth to the Ricoh GR1 (35mm film camera…which fits nicely into a front jean pocket, for example); but it’s quite a bit smaller in the width and (especially) length dimension versus the GR1.

All in all, I’d say the S90 is clearly the most pocketable. Now, how “usable” is such a small digital camera? More on that later…



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Best Compact Digital Camera to Buy for Image Quality and Pocketability

17 Tuesday Nov 2009

Posted by mgm in All, Commentary, Reviews

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I was at a friend’s house the other night for a party. They live in the city (it’s a small city, but it’s a city) and there were lots of young children in attendance. The children needed running space and so were in the backyard on a dark and chilly evening, along with a few of us adults to monitor their activities. Someone decided it would be nice to have the light and heat of a bonfire back there; so they lit a nice big fire in a metal fire pit. The kindling was especially effective because the fire quickly flamed way up and threw lots of welcome heat into the backyard.

Well, it wasn’t long before two fire trucks show up in response to a phone call by a “concerned” neighbor. It turns out you can only have small contained cooking fires (e.g., a Weber grill) in the city and the firemen and accompanying policeman informed us we had to put out the fire.

The firemen and policeman could have easily been jerks about all of this. However, they clearly felt bad about this seemingly overblown response to our reasonably contained bonfire. So, seeing all the young children around, they invited the children to come aboard the fire truck and see the inside firsthand. Of course, the children *loved* this and the adults were thrilled with this free entertainment for their kids. (I think some of the adults were themselves entertained by the spectacle of these trucks and their flashing lights in the darkness of the night as well!)

Why am I telling this story in a blog post titled “Best Compact Digital Camera to Buy for Image Quality and Pocketability”? Because I had failed to bring a camera to this party. All I had was my Blackberry, and I couldn’t get a decent picture with it to save my life! This very photographable nighttime spectacle was clearly beyond the reach of my cell phone camera.

The next day, this thought entered my brain: “I must get a good compact digital camera that I can always have with me.” And so started a rekindled effort to find a quality compact camera.

If you’ve followed my postings at Lightmanship, you’ve probably seen me talk about using compact film cameras more than once. The great thing about a compact 35mm film camera is you get the equivalent of a “full size” sensor in a compact form factor.

I have a Ricoh GR1 that fits into a front jean pocket, has a great lens (28mm f/2.8), and gives me great pics. I’m quite enamored with it. But there’s a catch.

When you’re loading a roll of film into a camera, you’re making a prediction about the types of photos you’ll be taking that day and/or in the near future. If you’ll be photographing in the middle of the day with plenty of light, you may select some 125 ISO or slower film. If you’ll be photographing late in the day or at night–or indoors with low lighting–you might select 800 ISO or faster film. If you’ve loaded slow film and find yourself in relatively dark conditions, you can use the camera’s flash to still get the photo…though, with the “flash aesthetic”…which may be good or bad.

One of the great things about a digital camera is that the ISO is adjustable from shot to shot. This provides an important degree of flexibility for a camera you want to have with you at all times in a wide range of shooting conditions.

So, I’ve decided that if the digital camera on my cell phone can’t hack it (it’s also painfully slow at saving images and being ready for another shot), then I need to find a quality compact digital camera to carry around in addition to my Blackberry–perhaps I can fit them both into a slim and compact pouch–that I won’t find burdensome.

It turns out that this compactness + high image quality combination is quite tricky! Most compact digital cameras have *very small* sensors and mediocre lenses that yield pretty awful image quality…especially for someone used to the images coming out of a full-frame DSLR camera.

Camera companies like Olympus, Panasonic, Ricoh, Sigma, and Canon (to name a few) are starting to come out with small cameras with relatively large sensors. (Large sensors improve things like image quality, low-light shooting, and image depth-of-field characteristics.) However, many of their offerings are not truly SPS (“Shirt Pocket Size”).

For example, I bought and owned a Panasonic DMC-LX3 for a while. I published a short review of it some months back. Once I customized my settings, I was pretty happy with the images I was getting. I ended up selling my LX3. Why?

Despite what DPReview has published at their website, the Panasonic DMC-LX3 is not a mere 1.1 inches thick. It’s actually closer to 2 inches thick where the lens barrel sticks out. In fact, it’s “thicker” than a Canon G10 which is definitely not a Shirt Pocket Size (SPS) camera! (here’s a photo showing the G10 next to the LX3)

There’s been a lot of press around the Olympus E-P1 and Panasonic GF1 which are like small DSLRs, in terms of having relatively large sensors and interchangeable lenses. (They’re actually not SLRs because they don’t have the flip-up mirrors of a single lens reflex camera, etcetera..but the sensors are almost as big as the APS-C size sensors you find in 1.6 crop DSLRs and you can change lenses like you can with a DSLR.)

If you look at the specs for these cameras, you’ll find that they too are not Shirt Pocket Size, *especially* with the standard 14-4Xmm zoom lens they usually come with attached. If you opt for the more expensive “pancake” lenses instead of the zoom lenses, you can definitely reduce the thickness of the camera plus lens. But by how much?

I’m going to present a table comparing the lengths, widths, and thicknesses of the compact digital cameras I’ve been considering as true competitors when it comes to the Image Quality + Pocketability market. But before I do that, I’d like to discuss some criteria for the cameras I’ve included…

Most compact digital cameras have very small sensors that yield poor image quality and lots of digital noise at all but their lowest ISO setting, regardless of how many megapixels they might have. (Actually, jamming more megapixels into these tiny sensors exacerbates these image quality problems!) It turns out that there is substantial variation in sensor size, quality, and number of megapixels; so all compact digital camera sensors are not equal.

I mentioned the Panasonic DMC-LX3 whose image quality I found to be relatively decent. It turns out its sensor is (approx) 8.8 x 6.6mm and the megapixel density is 24mp/cm2. Now compare that to a typical pocketable digital camera, a Canon PowerShot SD980 IS: the sensor is 6.16 x 4.62 mm with a megapixel density of 43mp/cm2. So, the LX3’s sensor is a bit bigger and the megapixel density is lower. Both of these tend to contribute to higher image quality all other factors being equal.

I have found other recent compact digital cameras with similarly slightly larger sensors and relatively low megapixel densities: the Ricoh GRD III, the Canon G11, and the Canon S90.

Of course, there are other factors to take into consideration when comparing compact digital cameras: 1) lens quality, 2) lens focal length, 3) fixed focal length vs. zoom, and what the zoom range is, 4) auto-focussing speed, 5) lens aperture range, 6) whether there’s a built-in flash and/or a hot shoe, 7) whether it has an optical viewfinder, and so on. Each person has to decide which of these factors is most important to them and how they should play out in their decision.

For me, I’d prefer a reasonably good quality lens (of course) that can go at least as wide as 28mm, has good auto-focussing speed, and a maximum aperture at least as large as f/2.8. I want a built-in flash and would prefer an optical viewfinder, but will live without the latter if necessary.

Okay, so let’s get to the table of sizes. One caveat though: it’s *really* difficult to get a depth or thickness dimension that includes the protruding lens and/or grip parts. I’ve had to estimate some of these based on various inexact indicators. But it’ll be better than going by the depth/thickness specs the camera manufacturers are providing!

The “Full Depth” below is an estimate of how deep or thick your pocket needs to be in order to contain the camera–lens and all–when the camera is turned off.

Camera Length Width Full Depth
Canon G11 4.4″ 3″ 1.9″
Canon S90 3.9″ 2.3″ 1.22″
Leica X1 4.9″ 2.2″ 2.0″
Olympus E-P1 w/ 14-42 zoom 4.8″ 2.8″ 3.1″
Olympus E-P1 w/ 17mm pancake 4.8″ 2.8″ 2.24″
Panasonic DMC-LX3 and
Leica D-Lux 4
4.3″ 2.4″ 1.9″
Panasonic GF1 w/ 14-45 zoom 4.7″ 2.8″ 3.8″
Panasonic GF1 w/ 20mm pancake 4.7″ 2.8″ 2.4″
Ricoh GR Digital III 4.3″ 2.3″ 1.2″
Ricoh GXR 4.5″ 2.8″ 1.8″
Sigma DP1 4.3″ 2.4″ 2.0″
Sigma DP2 4.5″ 2.5″ 2.2″
Now, personally, I find that 1.5″ is the maximum thickness that I’d still consider pocketable in a shirt or pant pocket, and even that is pushing it. I have a 1.25″ thick Ricoh GR1 that actually fits quite nicely into a pocket, even a relatively tight-fitting front jean pocket.


Many of the cameras above will fit into coat or jacket pockets. However, much of my photography is outdoors when the weather is nice and I *really* don’t like wearing coats or jackets when I don’t have to. (If I were willing to go up 0.5″ in thickness, the 2″ deep Leica X1 with a
36 f/2.8 [36mm in full 35mm frame terms] Leica lens and an APS-C size sensor–the biggest sensor in this group–would really be tempting. Of course, being a Leica, it’s pretty pricey!)

By the 1.5″ or less thickness criterion, only two of these cameras are shirt & pant “pocketable”: the Ricoh GR Digital III and the Canon Powershot S90. They’re both thin (actually even thinner than 1.25″),

have relatively wide lenses (28 mm on the Ricoh, 28-105 on the Canon), and both have large maximum apertures (f/1.9 on the Ricoh and f/2 on the Canon).

I suspect the quality of the lens on the Ricoh is better, mostly because of the well-known rule of thumb in photography that prime (fixed focal length) lenses tend to have better optical quality than zoom lenses. Of course, the strength of zoom lenses is that they cover more focal lengths.

What about price? The Ricoh GR Digital III retails for about $700; the Canon Powershot S90 for about $430. So the Ricoh sells for about 63% more than the Canon; that’s pretty significant.

I think I’d be pretty happy with either of these for my pocketable, relatively high image quality camera needs. But it’s a relatively clear choice for me: the Canon S90. Why?

  1. I’d rather spend $430 than $700 on a walk-around camera that is not meant primarily to make money for me; my professional DSLRs and lenses are my primary camera tools for generating photography-related income. The image quality on the S90 is sufficient, though, when I get a lucky shot that I want to publish at my website for marketing purposes or to make small prints.
  2. The zoom is more flexible than the fixed 28mm lens…and I think the quality of the lens on the S90 is good enough for my purposes. Canon usually puts good lenses on their compacts, and the Powershot S-series (I owned the 5 megapixel S60, which I was quite happy with; but it’s performance above 100 ISO was really poor) is at the high-end of their compacts.
  3. I own a 35mm film Ricoh GR1 with a 28mm f/2.8 lens that helps to satisfy my appetite for a compact Ricoh point-and-shoot camera when I need it…;-).

So, I’m going with the Canon Powershot S90! I’ll publish some of my photos and experiences with the S90 in future posts…:-).

To see more about the S90:

  • Canon’s Powershot S90 Product Tour
  • Some more Canon Powershot S90 reviews
  • Another useful and enlightening review of the S90 and a comparison to the Panasonic DMC-LX3 and GF1


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Canon 5D versus Canon 5D Mark II Noise Comparison at 1600 and 3200 ISO

28 Wednesday Oct 2009

Posted by mgm in All, Reviews

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4-5 months ago, I did a comparison of the noise in the images from my Canon 5D at 1600 and 3200 ISO against those from a Canon 5D Mark II, also at 1600 and 3200 ISO. I found the differences to be negligible.

As you can imagine, this annoyed some photographers (especially, I assume, those who had purchased a 5D Mark II) and they said my tests were flawed…especially, since my test images had some blur from camera shake. I actually thought that the camera shake might help to force people to look purely at image noise instead of image detail.

I’ve come to agree that loss of image detail is in fact related to image noise, because image noise can obliterate image detail.

So, I finally got a hold of the Canon 5D Mark II again and re-did the tests. I braced the camera on the back of a chair and used a Canon 50 f/1.4 lens at an aperture setting of f/2.8 (because I did the test in relatively low light–which is normally when one uses ISOs of 1600 and 3200). I did 100% magnification crops from both cameras at their highest resolutions in RAW image format. I used Canon Digital Photo Professional software to create the jpegs directly from the RAW files. (Note: the point of focus was right between the 3 strawberries at the top of the image for all images.)

Here are the test images:

Canon 5D, 1600 ISO, 100% magnification

Canon 5D Mark II, 1600 ISO, 100% magnification

Canon 5D, 3200 ISO, 100% magnification

Canon 5D Mark II, 3200 ISO, 100% magnification

Am I seeing any huge differences now? I wouldn’t call them “huge”, but I *am* seeing some noise improvements in the 5D Mark II images versus the 5D images. Are they enough to justify paying twice as much for a 5D Mark II versus a lightly used 5D? In my opinion, these differences alone would *not* justify paying so much more for the Mark II.

That said, if you really need to be able to shoot at 6400 ISO and maybe (occasionally) at 12,800 ISO, need the higher megapixel count of the Mark II (21 mp versus 12.8 mp for the 5D), and could really use the video recording capabilities of the Mark II, then the 5D Mark II may indeed be a worthwhile purchase.

I decided not to purchase the 5D Mark II in 2009 and I don’t regret my decision. The 5D Mark II still has the antiquated 9-point AF system that the 5D and Canon’s 1.6 crop factor DSLRs have and it’s not really very usable above 6400 ISO.

Recently, however, Canon came out with the 7D, which finally goes beyond that 9-point AF system. And the announcement of the 1D Mark IV (due to start shipping in December) has created a *huge* temptation for me. ISOs up to 102,400 (seemingly quite usable up to 51,200 ISO) with the best auto-focusing system on any DSLR Canon builds.

Now, if I can just dig up the $5000 I need to purchase it…:p.



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The New Canon 1D Mark IV: the end of flash photography (for those who hate it)?

20 Tuesday Oct 2009

Posted by mgm in All, Reviews

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I was just photographing a wedding over the weekend and, again, I was spending too much time “fighting” with proper exposures when using my on-camera and off-camera flashes (a 580EX II on the hotshoe and two 550EXs as slaves). The more time I spend trying to fix suboptimal flash performance, the less time I spend focusing on the actual wedding activities going on in front of me!

When I heard Canon’s official announcement about the new 1D Mark IV coming this December today, I was intrigued. When I read that the high end of the ISO range was expanding past the upper limit of 6400 that was present on the Mark III to a whopping 102400, I was more than intrigued!

Now, it has been my experience that the highest ISO available on a Canon DSLR is seldom that usable–i.e., you only want to use it when you have no other option. Now this fluctuates a little, depending on the camera. I have generally found the maximum of 3200 ISO on the 5D to be pretty usable and the maximum of 6400 ISO on the 1D Mark III too…as long as the image was properly exposed; if you underexposed it, forget it.

My experience with Canon’s 1.6 crop factor DSLRs (i.e., the Digital Rebels and the 10-50D series) was that you really wanted to stay away from the top ISO if possible, *even if* properly exposed. And the 5D Mark II is very noisy at the top ISO (25600), and I’m not even sure I could call the second highest ISO on it (12800) all that usable either.

The other thing that pains me about the 5D Mark II is that it can’t possibly focus without a flash or wireless transmitter attached to it in darkness requiring 12800 or 25600 ISO. Its 9 AF point autofocusing with one cross-hair point is very primitive and not good in low light; so, what’s the use?

Well, if Canon has ever made a camera that can focus in low light without AF assist, it’s been the 1D series; and according to the specs for the 1D Mark IV, that autofocusing has been improved. But the thing that gets me most excited is combining Canon’s most advanced autofocusing camera with an upper ISO that is 4 stops higher than the 1D Mark III! This means those shots I could barely get of the wedding couple dancing on the dark dance floor at f/1.4 with the ISO cranked to 6400 and the shutter speed down to 1/30 sec, I would now (theoretically) be able to capture with a shutter speed of 1/500 sec instead!

Now, I don’t want to be Pollyanna-ish. Until I see some image samples from the 1D Mark IV, I’m going to figure that the top ISO of 102400 and maybe the second highest ISO of 51200 aren’t going to be very usable generally. That would leave me with the next highest ISO of 25600. 25600 is two stops faster than 6400. So, in my example, instead of using a quite low shutter speed of 1/30, I’d be able to increase it to 1/125 sec…*much* more reasonable for catching a wedding couple slow dancing on a dark dance floor.

Being able to crank the ISO up two stops will also make it easier to catch those wedding processions down the center aisle in dark churches (with high ceilings and walls that are too far away to bounce your flash off of) without creating “deer in the headlight” photos with your flash.

Another feature that I’m quite interested in is the Auto ISO setting that enables automatic 100-12800 ISO coverage. Now, I’ve been a bit frustrated with the Auto ISO on the 5D Mark II because you can’t set a minimum shutter speed and in Auto ISO, the 5D Mark II will sometimes choose really low shutter speeds, like 1/15 or 1/20 sec if you’re shooting in P or Av (aperture priority) mode. The 1D Mark IV, however, lets you set an acceptable shutter speed range in the custom settings, which should eliminate those unacceptably low shutter speeds.

Here are some sample high ISO images shot with a pre-production 1D Mark IV.

You can read more about the Canon 1D Mark IV at Canon’s website. And you can pre-order it at B&H’s website!



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Film-Like Performance of the Canon 35-350 L Lens

28 Monday Sep 2009

Posted by mgm in All, Reviews

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I like the look of film. When I’ve used a film camera, it strikes me how different the photos look compared to the ones I normally get from my digital SLR.Film often has a smoother, “analog” look to it.

Well, this past weekend, I did a high school senior portrait session. Often I bring two DSLRs with two lenses: one covering the wider end of the spectrum (e.g. 24-70mm), and one covering the telephoto end (e.g., 70-200mm). At the last moment, I decided to just take one camera and use one lens: my Canon 35-350 L.

Sometimes I hesitate to use my 35-350 lens because it’s not particularly fast (max aperture is f/3.5 at the wide end and f/5.6 at the telephoto end), and it’s relatively heavy without image stabilization. (My 70-200 lens is heavier, but it’s faster–constant f/2.8 max–and has image stabilization.)

I’ve noticed, however, if I increase my ISO setting one stop over what I would use with a f/2.8 lens, the shutter speed is usually fast enough so that blur doesn’t become an issue.

So, anyway, I photographed the whole portrait session with the 35-350 attached to my full-frame 5D. (I had my 24-105 f/4 IS along in case I was having issues with the 35-350; but it stayed in my camera bag.)

Well, having the 35-350mm range available in an instance is *really* handy. No matter where my portrait subject was and where I had to stand–which was sometimes not very close due to the terrain–I could zoom out for a full body or environmental portrait; and the next minute fill the frame with a tight headshot. I love that.

Canon 5D + Canon 35-350 L

The thing I forget about is the “analog” look of the images I get when I use the 35-350. They’re smoother and more film-like than the images I get with my other lenses. If you like lots of sharp detail resolution, you probably won’t like what this lens delivers; stick to prime lenses.

But lots of sharp detail is often not very flattering for portraiture. A smoother film-like rendering is.

I’m not sure if Canon’s newer 28-300 IS L lens (which replaced the 35-350 L) gives a similar film-like performance. I suspect it doesn’t, but I may try to borrow it one of these days to compare. If you’ve used the Canon’s 28-300 IS L, please share your experiences with it in the comments area below…:-).



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